Time and again you may examine your lawn and notice that there are sections that require to be filled in and thickened up. Your best option with this particular variety of lawn is to aerate it and over-seed.
An aerator is a device that pierces hundreds of slots in the soil and takes away a core of soil to leave it resting on top. A small number of aerators just merely press a spike straight into the soil, making a hole. This particular kind just isn't as wise. Check with an equipment rental store to find an aerator that will work for you.
For starters, you'll want to mow your grass as low as possible safely, don't throw rocks and dig dirt with the mower, but ensure it is all the way down to somewhere around 1" high. This will stunt the grass and slow down its growth enabling the new grass to have a head start on growth whilst not having to panic about being left in the dark by longer blades of grass.
Cover the completed lawn at least two times. Dependent on the make you use, the aerator will stick holes every two-to-eight inches. If you peer downward at the lawn and don't see spots that do not have openings larger than 6", you are doing great.
Now that your are finished aerating, you can get started distributing your seed. The quantity of seed you use is very important. If you don't make use of quite enough you won't get the required results. Most pros will use 350lbs per acre for lawns. Divided out per thousand square feet that is 8 pounds per 1000 sq feet.
Right after scattering the seed take a retardant of any kind, a section of chain link fence, a board that has a rope bound to it, or anything else you'll be able to haul behind your lawn mower. Pull holes through the lawn, this will drive and drag seeds straight into the openings you formed, that will hide the vast majority of the seeds, allowing considerable increased germination and a thicker lawn.
The moment you complete the dragging, open up a starter fertilizer. You may want to set down 8 pounds per thousand square feet of a 6-12-12 or four pounds per K of a 6-24-24. This tends to give the soil the nutrients needed to germinate and start up a turf lawn.
After a month the new grass will quickly yellow, this demonstrates to you that it's the perfect time to fertilize over again. Apply half a dozen lbs per K of 15-15-15. Several more weeks down the road, once you begin mowing, ensure to cut it high. Fertilizing can proceed to take place on a daily basis, if neccessary.
An aerator is a device that pierces hundreds of slots in the soil and takes away a core of soil to leave it resting on top. A small number of aerators just merely press a spike straight into the soil, making a hole. This particular kind just isn't as wise. Check with an equipment rental store to find an aerator that will work for you.
For starters, you'll want to mow your grass as low as possible safely, don't throw rocks and dig dirt with the mower, but ensure it is all the way down to somewhere around 1" high. This will stunt the grass and slow down its growth enabling the new grass to have a head start on growth whilst not having to panic about being left in the dark by longer blades of grass.
Cover the completed lawn at least two times. Dependent on the make you use, the aerator will stick holes every two-to-eight inches. If you peer downward at the lawn and don't see spots that do not have openings larger than 6", you are doing great.
Now that your are finished aerating, you can get started distributing your seed. The quantity of seed you use is very important. If you don't make use of quite enough you won't get the required results. Most pros will use 350lbs per acre for lawns. Divided out per thousand square feet that is 8 pounds per 1000 sq feet.
Right after scattering the seed take a retardant of any kind, a section of chain link fence, a board that has a rope bound to it, or anything else you'll be able to haul behind your lawn mower. Pull holes through the lawn, this will drive and drag seeds straight into the openings you formed, that will hide the vast majority of the seeds, allowing considerable increased germination and a thicker lawn.
The moment you complete the dragging, open up a starter fertilizer. You may want to set down 8 pounds per thousand square feet of a 6-12-12 or four pounds per K of a 6-24-24. This tends to give the soil the nutrients needed to germinate and start up a turf lawn.
After a month the new grass will quickly yellow, this demonstrates to you that it's the perfect time to fertilize over again. Apply half a dozen lbs per K of 15-15-15. Several more weeks down the road, once you begin mowing, ensure to cut it high. Fertilizing can proceed to take place on a daily basis, if neccessary.
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