Guinea Pigs Cages - Getting Yours Set Up Quickly

By Bob Matthews


So you have just brought your new guinea pig home from the shelter or pet shop. And now, you're not entirely sure what to do. Let us help you to get off to a great start with this quick-start guinea pig owners ' guide.



First of all, if you have just come back from the shelter or pet store with just a single pig, we highly recommend that you turn around and go back. Guinea pigs are social creatures and tend to do better when there are at least a couple pigs living together. Two females are a good mixture. Two males can live together in peace as long as they've been raised together. And while it's feasible to introduce two grown males to one another, it does require patience and care. A male and a female are the absolute best combination, but naturally one of them needs to be "fixed" in order to avoid a future in-cage population explosion.

Your first task is to select a cage. Petshop cages have a tendency to be too small to adequately house a single pig "not to mention multiple pigs. Use the following recommendations when choosing guinea pigs cages:

- One guinea pig: 6-7 sq. Ft.
- Two guinea pigs: 7.5 sq. Ft.
- Three guinea pigs: 10.5 sq. Ft.

If you are unable to find one roomy enough at the pet shop, you can always build your own cage or buy one online from a trustworthy cage seller. In recent years, C&C (Cubes and Coroplast) cages have become quite popular because they provide a lot of cage for the money. Try the resource area and the end of this essay for links to some online C&C guinea pig cage stores.

Place a nest box, a piece of PVC pipe or other enclosure within the cage. Pigs like to hide out in comfortable small places and providing a hiding place within the cage will make your pigs feel more happy and more secure.

Never place your pigs in an aquarium. Yes, some people do house their pigs in an aquarium, however it is really unhealthy for their respiratory system. Toxic ammonia gas forms as your pigs urinate inside the enclosure. In a wire cage, there is satisfactory ventilation to carry this gas away. But in an aquarium the ammonia gas is contained by the glass walls causing your pigs to inhale it in all day long.

Fill the cage with bedding. Avoid cedar chips and cat litter made of clay. Both are very bad for your guinea pig's respiratory system. A litter made from recycled paper works very well. Also, many of us have begun to line their cages with an absorbent material covered in fleece. The fleece allows liquids to wick thru into the absorbent layer.

Generally, Timothy hay is excellent for your pigs. Your pigs can have it in just about unlimited amounts. Alfalfa hay should be given much more carefully. Alfalfa hay is richer and will cause your pigs to gain exorbitant weight.

While, commercial pellets are fine for your guinea pigs nonetheless , they also are very rich and should be given in low quantities as a supplement to the primary diet which should consist typically of fresh fruits and vegetables. Only vegetables with rich dark colors should be chosen. Iceberg lettuce should never be fed to your pigs; it is generally empty calories with small nutritive value.

Do not forget to install a water bottle in your pig's cage. Water dishes don't work well "as pigs like to tip them over.

Above all, don't panic. Guinea pigs are wonderful animals and do not need an excessive amount of attention. Remember that guinea pigs do better in pairs or groups than living alone. Be absolutely sure to provide satisfactory living space. C&C cages are a popular choice today because they do provide a lot of room for a reasonable price. Provide a comfy hiding place for your pigs - many nest boxes are available for guinea pigs. An inverted little cardboard box works very well too (although guinea pigs like to nibble so you could have to replace it regularly). Feed your pig generally deep-colored fresh vegetables and supply a water bottle. That's all you will need to begin.




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